A typical DIY run (50–70 ft) takes 2–4 days with one experienced helper: Day 1 layout and digging, Day 2 set posts, Day 3 rails and slats, Day 4 gates and finish. Professional crews finish faster, but if you follow consistent post spacing, use a powered auger, and pre-cut slats with a stop-block, you save a lot of time and avoid rework.

1. Project Planning & Site Preparation

Getting a slatted fence project right starts long before you lift a post hole digger. Good prep work saves you from crooked posts, awkward angles, or last-minute runs to the hardware store. A strong project always begins with a clear plan, accurate measurements, and a layout that actually makes sense in your yard. Below is what matters before installation.

1.1 Define fence purpose, height, and style

Start by deciding why you want the fence in the first place. Privacy? A cleaner-looking boundary? Blocking wind on a patio? Each purpose affects the height and spacing you’ll use. Most homeowners stick between 4–6 ft, but backyards often benefit from the taller end for better screening.

If you want that warm, rhythmic, horizontal look—clean lines that still let light through—then a Classic Slatted Fence fits perfectly. Picture a late afternoon backyard scene: sunlight slipping between the boards, long shadows stretching across the lawn, the fence blending naturally with outdoor furniture instead of overpowering the space. Choosing the right style early keeps the entire project consistent, from post spacing to slat thickness.

1.2 Measure property lines and mark layout

Before you mark a single post location, walk your boundaries and confirm where your property line actually sits. Many people assume they know, but pins get buried, fences drift off alignment, and older yards can surprise you.

Once you’re sure:

1. Stretch a tight string line between your boundary markers.

2. Use spray paint to mark each planned post location along the string.

3. Step back and check the sightline from different angles—patio, driveway, side yard.

This is the moment when you visualize the entire fence as a long architectural feature rather than a simple row of boards. And since you're laying out multiple sections, you’re essentially planning your run of Slatted Fences from end to end.

1.3 Locate underground utilities and set post spacing

Before digging, check for underground utilities. Irrigation lines and electrical conduits often run closer to the fence line than people expect. It only takes one unlucky dig to turn a weekend project into a repair job.

After confirming the ground is clear, establish your post spacing. Most slatted fence builds fall between 6–8 ft per post, but adjust based on:

1. Wind exposure

2. The weight of your chosen slats

3. Whether a gate will be nearby

If your yard opens to strong crosswinds, tighten spacing slightly to keep the structure firm. Consistent spacing creates the visual rhythm that makes a slatted fence feel clean and intentional.

1.4 Calculate materials list and order quantities

With your spacing set, you can run the numbers:

1. Divide your total fence length by your chosen spacing to calculate post count.

2. Add two extra posts for flexibility.

3. Multiply posts by your rail configuration—usually two or three per section.

4. Estimate slat quantity based on your chosen gap size.

Always order a little extra—about 5–10% more slats covers knots, splits, and cutting mistakes. Imagine planning a 60-ft run: you’d typically need around eight posts, two dozen rails, and well over a hundred slats. A well-prepared materials list keeps the build smooth and interruption-free.

2. Materials & Tools Checklist

Getting the right materials from the start makes the entire fence build smoother. This section focuses on practical choices, specific dimensions, and the tools that actually make a difference during installation. A good slatted fence looks clean because every component works together—posts, rails, slats, and the hardware holding them in place.

2.1 Lumber choices (types, dimensions) and fasteners

The material you choose affects strength, spacing, weight, and how the fence handles weather over the years. For a clean horizontal rhythm, many builders choose aluminum slats or composite boards because they stay straight and don’t warp with humidity. If you want a modern setup that stays rigid over time, an Aluminum Slatted Fence gives you consistent dimensions, lighter weight, and fewer alignment issues.

For lumber or composite builds, the most common slat dimensions are 1×6, 1×4, and 1×2 depending on how tight or open you want the spacing. Thicker slats (like 1×6) feel more substantial and give better privacy, while narrower slats create a sharper visual rhythm.

Fasteners matter as much as the boards. Use:

1. Exterior-grade coated screws for wood

2. Stainless screws for aluminum or composite

3. Trim-head screws when you want clean, barely visible lines

Never mix screw types, especially if humidity fluctuates in your region, because it creates uneven aging along the fence line.

2.2 Posts, rails, and slat profiles — specifications

Posts hold the entire structure together, so sizing them correctly is unavoidable. Most straight runs use 4×4 posts, but if you’re building a long section exposed to wind or adding a gate, jump to 6×6 posts for noticeably more stability.

Rails usually run horizontally between posts. A typical layout uses:

1. A top rail at 5–6 ft

2. A bottom rail at 1–1.5 ft above ground

3. A middle rail if the slats are heavier

When choosing slat profiles, think about visual rhythm. Some people prefer square-edge slats for a clean shadow line, while others like slightly rounded edges because they soften the look. Custom builds often use Custom Slatted Fence Panels when they need specific spacing, thicker boards, or pre-assembled sections to speed up installation.

If you mention slatted slat profiles again later in the project, simply refer to them as custom panels or profiled slats without adding additional links.

2.3 Tools required (digging, cutting, fastening, leveling)

A clean, straight fence line depends on the consistency of your tools as much as your measurements. Here’s what you’ll use through the entire build:

1. Post hole digger or auger – A powered auger saves hours on long fence lines.

2. Circular saw or miter saw – You get cleaner cuts with a 40-tooth or higher blade, especially on aluminum or composite slats.

3. Impact driver – Essential for driving exterior screws reliably.

4. 2–4 ft level – A longer level helps you align multiple slats at once.

5. String line and marking paint – They keep your alignment consistent across the entire run.

6. Rubber mallet – Useful when adjusting rails without damaging the finish.

Good tools speed up installation and reduce mistakes, especially when you’re aligning 30–50 horizontal slats across multiple bays.

2.4 Optional hardware (post anchors, post caps, gate hardware)

Optional hardware strengthens the structure and improves the finished look.

• Post anchors help when soil is loose, rocky, or inconsistent. They add stability without requiring deeper holes.

• Post caps keep water out of the post tops, which dramatically extends lifespan for wood or composite builds.

• Gate hardware such as adjustable hinges, latch systems, and anti-sag kits ensure the gate stays aligned over time.

If your fence includes a gate next to a long slatted section, consider using heavy-duty hinges rated above 40–60 lbs so the gate doesn’t drift over months of use. Small hardware decisions often make the difference between a fence that feels solid and a fence that feels temporary.

3. Setting Posts & Foundation

This is where your fence goes from lines on paper to a real structure. Solid posts and a correct foundation determine whether your fence stands true for years or sags and leans within a season. Below I give exact, usable steps, clear dimensions, and the on-site checks you must do.

3.1 Marking post locations and digging holes to depth

Get your layout final, then mark every post with spray paint or a stake. Don’t guess—measure.

1. Confirm post spacing from your plan (commonly 6–8 ft apart).

2. Mark the center of every post location on the ground.

3. Dig holes to the right diameter and depth:

   • For a fence that finishes 4–6 ft above ground, bury about 1/3 of the finished post length (so a 6 ft finished post needs roughly 2 ft of embedment).

   • Make hole diameters roughly 3× the post width (a 4×4 post uses a 9–12 in hole; a 6×6 post uses 12–18 in).

4. If you face frost in winter, go at least 6 in below frost line for your region; otherwise frost heave will move your posts.

Dig straight-sided holes and clear loose soil; loose bottom soil causes settling. Use an auger or a post-hole digger for consistent holes across a long run.

3.2 Installing posts: concrete vs. gravel set methods

Choose your setting method based on soil, budget, and longevity goals.

Concrete set (most durable):

1. Place the post in the hole and check plumb.

2. Temporarily brace the post so it cannot move.

3. Pour dry concrete mix or rapid-set concrete around the post, then add water per bag instructions.

4. Compact concrete so it contacts the post evenly; leave the concrete top sloped away from the post to shed water.

5. Allow concrete to cure per manufacturer guidance—usually 24–48 hours before attaching heavy rails.

Gravel set (drainage-first, easier to replace):

1. Put 4–6 in of crushed gravel in the bottom and tamp it firmly.

2. Set the post on the gravel bed and check plumb.

3. Backfill with more crushed gravel in 4–6 in lifts, compacting each lift.

4. Finish with the top sloping away from the post.

5. Gravel set works well in free-draining soils and when you want future post removal to be easier.

Concrete gives long-term stiffness; gravel gives better drainage and simpler replacement. Choose the method that matches your site conditions and maintenance preferences.

3.3 Checking alignment, plumb and level of posts

Do not skip repeated checks—small mistakes compound over dozens of posts.

1. Run a string line tight between the first and last post at the height of your top rail.

2. Use a long level or a laser level against the posts to ensure each sits within 1/4 in of plumb.

3. Check front-to-back level of each post so rails sit flat; adjust braces until the post holds true.

4. Re-check every post after the first 10–15 minutes of concrete pour or after final gravel tamp—materials shift.

If a post moves while concrete is curing, pull it out, re-brace, and re-pour. Fix small errors now; they turn into big alignment problems later.

3.4 Post spacing verification and brace installation

Before concrete sets, verify the rhythm of your fence.

1. Measure between post centers along multiple bays to confirm consistent spacing.

2. Place temporary cross-braces: run a 2×4 from the post top down to a stake at a 45° angle and clamp it tight.

3. For long runs, install horizontal ledger boards on the inside face at the top height to lock alignment across many posts.

4. If you install a heavy gate, add an extra post or a 6×6 post at the gate location to resist twisting.

Well-braced posts stay true; under-braced posts wobble and ruin your rail layout. Always brace every post before any concrete sets or backfill compacts.

Common mistakes & quick fixes

• Mistake: Filling concrete too high and creating a puddle at the post base.
  Fix: Carve a slight slope on the concrete top to shed water immediately.

• Mistake: Not compacting gravel lifts.
  Fix: Remove the post, compact properly, then re-seat the post.

• Mistake: Skipping alignment checks until after rails go on.
  Fix: Pull rails off, correct posts one by one—this takes time, so check early instead.

4. Assembling Rails, Slats & Gates

This is the moment the fence starts to look like a finished product. Tight rails, consistent slat gaps, and a square gate determine whether the fence reads as professional or amateur. Below I give exact, jobsite-ready steps, measurement rules, fastening tips, and a small reference table for common slat/gap combos.

4.1 Installing horizontal rails and rail hangers

Rails carry the slats, so install them accurately and firmly.

1. Attach rail hangers or brackets to the inside face of each post at the planned top and bottom rail heights. Make sure hangers sit square and match on every post.

2. Slide the rail into the hanger, then clamp it temporarily so you can check alignment along the run.

3. Fasten rails through the hanger with the recommended screws (typically two screws per hanger). For wooden rails use exterior-grade coated screws; for metal rails use self-tapping stainless screws.

4. For long spans, add a mid-rail or use continuous rails that tie into an inside ledger—this prevents sagging between posts.

5. Before you move on, walk the entire fence and sight down the top rail; adjust any rail that veers off by more than 1/8 in across a 6 ft bay.

A level top rail equals a clean visual line; don’t accept anything less.

4.2 Measuring and cutting slats for consistent gaps

Consistency makes the whole design sing. Cut once, measure twice.

1. Determine your slat width and target gap—common pairs include: 1×4 slat with 3/8 in gap, 1×6 with 1/2 in gap, or narrower 1×2 for tight rhythm.

2. Use a stop block on your miter saw for repeatable length cuts—this saves time and keeps every board identical.

3. Cut all slats for a single bay in one batch so you maintain the exact same length and edge finish.

4. Deburr or lightly sand the cut ends, especially on aluminum or composite, to ensure straight contact with rails.

5. Dry-fit one bay: lay slats in place with your chosen spacers and check the visual rhythm before you fasten anything.

Slat width → gap → slats per 1 m (reference)

Use this table as a quick calculator when ordering slats; adjust slightly for trim and end-post allowances.

4.3 Fastening slats: patterns (single-side, alternating) and spacing guides

Choose a fastening pattern that fits your look and load requirements.

1. Single-side fastening: Fasten each slat through one side to the rail—this looks clean on the front face and simplifies installation. Use two screws per slat per rail for stability.

2. Alternating fastening: Fasten alternating slats on opposite rails (left screw on slat A, right screw on slat B). This hides most screw heads from direct view and reduces splitting risk on wood.

3. Space slats with consistent plastic or plywood spacers—1/8 in to 1/2 in depending on your chosen gap.

4. Pre-drill pilot holes on hardwood or aluminum slats to prevent splitting or burrs; countersink slightly for a flush finish if you don’t want visible heads.

5. When fastening, work from one end of the bay to the other so each new slat references the previous for perfect alignment.

Tight, consistent fastening yields a calm, repeating rhythm that reads as quality craftsmanship.

4.4 Building and hanging a gate (frame, hardware, adjustment)

A gate needs structure and precision—treat it as a small wall.

1. Build a rectangular frame from 2×4 or equivalent metal tube sized for your slat profile. Keep the frame square by measuring diagonals; the diagonals must match within 1/8 in for a true square.

2. Add a diagonal brace from the top hinge side down to the bottom latch side to resist sag over time. For heavier gates, use a full internal bracing grid.

3. Pre-attach slats to the gate frame while the frame sits flat on sawhorses so you keep consistent face alignment.

4. Choose gate hardware rated above the gate’s weight. Install hinges at least two per gate; for tall or heavy gates, use three. Place one hinge within 12 in of the top, one within 12 in of the bottom, and a third centered between them if used.

5. Mount the gate, then adjust shims behind hinges to achieve a uniform reveal around the frame. Install a latch at a comfortable height—typically 36–42 in from the ground for pedestrian gates.

6. Finally, install an anti-sag kit or a chain-and-turnbuckle brace for longer gates; adjust tension so the gate closes smoothly without binding.

A well-built gate behaves like a piece of furniture—solid, square, and effortless to use. Don’t skimp on hardware or bracing.

Building a Classic Slatted Fence pays off when you plan well, use the right materials, and follow precise installation steps. Start with a solid layout, set true posts, and keep consistent gaps—those three things alone determine whether the final fence looks intentional or amateur. Do the prep, measure twice, and brace everything before concrete cures. When you work deliberately, the fence becomes an architectural feature that adds value, privacy, and clean curb appeal.